lolita fashion in MMD: a guide [UPD 6/18/2018]

<sub>6/18/2018: updated! i've added a section that goes into specific substyles of lolita and provides examples of each because i'm REALLY tired of seeing "china lolita" everywhere. there's a word for that. i've also added some terms to the 'what are some of the terms' section.

bc yknow after the 500th fucking object with a single ruffle or bow labelled as lolita u get really fucking tired.

its time to go to school kids.

am i salty? yes.
lolita fashion already has so many misconceptions surrounding it already, and the more you mislabel something as lolita when its not, the harder it gets to dispel those misconceptions. we're already seen as wearing costumes; lolita is not cosplay or a costume, and the more you mislabel things the more you solidify the stereotype. please dont drive me to drinking</sub>

what is lolita?

lolita is a fashion style that originated in japan approximately around the 1980s in harajuku. its inspired by the fashion of the french rococo era, with big skirts and lots of lace. for the record, lolita fashion has absolutely nothing to do with the book/movie Lolita and is not meant to be sexual or provocative in any way. nobody really knows where the term for the fashion first originated, but since 'lolita' is a common nickname for people named dolores, it's likely whoever first coined the term just thought it sounded cute and fitting. lolita fashion is all about modesty and the silhouette. i've heard it described as "a way to be feminine without being sexual", which is one good way to describe it. originally, lolita started as "gothic" lolita, but as it evolved more substyles came into play, such as punk lolita, sailor lolita, military lolita, hime lolita, wa lolita (inspired by tradition japanese clothing), qi lolita (inspired by traditional chinese clothing), bittersweet lolita, shiro/kuro lolita, and many many more. gothic, classic, and sweet lolita are commonly known as the "main 3".

what are some of the terms?

lolita fashion has a few terms specific to it.
- OP is "one piece", a dress with sleeves
- JSK is "jumperskirt", a dress without sleeves; JSKs are always worn with a blouse underneath. it's pretty frowned upon to wear a JSK with nothing underneath it. another option is to wear a cardigan over it instead.
- "ita" is a term used to describe "bad" lolita trends; halloweeny/costumey "lolita" made with shiny fabric, for example, would be ita.
- "coord" is short for coordinate; lolita "outfits" are referred to as coords because lolitas need to coordinate items to work together. telling a lolita their 'outfit' is nice will make them happy, but telling them you like their coord will really make them happy.
- "AP" and "BTSSB" are 'Angelic Pretty' and 'Baby, The Stars Shine Bright', respectively. these are two of the major lolita brands. AatP is Alice and the Pirates, which is owned by BTSSB and is for more of their darker or more gothic themed pieces.
-"a-line" and "cupcake" refer to skirt shapes. a-line skirts fall more straight, cupcake skirts are more poofy (think of madoka's skirt; it's a cupcake shape) and a-lines are named so because they're shaped like the letter A
-"OTT" is "over the top", which refers to a very decked-out coord. most hime coords are like this to make the princess feel more apparent. for example, an OTT sweet lolita may include multiple big and colorful rings, several bracelets, several necklaces, an extravagant or "extra" headpiece; generally OTT means going all out with your accessories.
- "A-line" is a skirt or dress that has an A shape. this refers to both garments and petticoats; an A-line, like the letter A, slopes downward at an angle. here's an example: 78.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lxw…
- "Cupcake" refers to a shape as well; cupcake shaped petticoats and dresses start out large at the top and cascade down in the shape of a bell. Here's an example: 78.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lxw…

you can see a list of lolita terms here: lolita-tips.tumblr.com/post/13…

what makes a lolita?

lolita fashion has rules to it. the most important thing to note that the MMDc is constantly getting wrong is that miniskirts are not lolita in any way, no matter how many bows or ruffles you put on it. 
some of the "rules" of lolita fashion are:
- the end of your skirt should typically be close to your knees. if your skirt is at mid-thigh, it's not lolita. the skirt can fall at or below your knees, but it shouldn't be too high above them; 1 or 2 inches is generally acceptable.
- unless you're going for ero lolita, your cleavage should be covered.
- accents can be shiny, but most lolita dresses are made of cotton fabrics and shouldn't be shiny (im look at you, ppl who put SPAs on everything)
- petticoats should not be showing
- a JSK should always have either a blouse underneath or a cardigan on top
- anime =/= lolita. some anime and game characters are stated to wear lolita but their outfits are not lolita at all. two of the most prominent examples of this i can think of are margaret moonlight from no more heroes and amy sorel from soul calibur. their outfits have lolita inspired elements to them, but they are not lolitas and should never be referred to as such (unless you want someone whos actually a lolita to break ur nose) another example of a character who is constantly referred to as lolita when they're not: kamui kanna from kobayashi's dragon maid. she is not a lolita. stop calling her one.
- lolita fashion is about the silhouette; if your skirts is laying flat against your legs, it's not lolita. lolita requires a petticoat; poof is a must
- lolita is not cosplay or a costume and should never ever EVER be referred to or treated as such.

ruffles and bows alone a lolita dress does not make. please don't throw a bunch of bows and lace on an object and call it lolita; do it tastefully.

what are some of the substyles, and what do they look like?

Sweet Lolita:
A style that generally has themes of cute and calming things. Prints popular in sweet style include things like toy parades, cute pastries, strawberries, teddy bears, bunnies, you name it. Colors are generally pastels + white, common colors are pink, lavendar, mint green, pale/pastel blue (which is also referred to as 'sax' in lolita).
Examples of sweet lolita: lolita-tips.tumblr.com/tagged/…

Gothic Lolita:
A darker style, which focuses more on darker colors and motifs. Commonly gothic prints will be more traditional gothic inspired imagery and architecture like iron fences, roses, birdcages, stained glass windows,  etc. Common colors include black, navy, dark purple, and dark reds.
Examples of gothic lolita: lolita-tips.tumblr.com/tagged/…

Classic Lolita:
Classic lolita is more focused on elegance than other styles and 'classical' feel prints, such as floral patterns and animals like deer. This style tends to use A-line pettis over bell-shaped pettis (see my terms section for descriptions on petticoats). The colors of classic lolita also tend to be much more muted, and classic is where most longer skirts are seen.
Examples of classic lolita: lolita-tips.tumblr.com/tagged/…




Casual Lolita:
A more toned-down substyle of lolita. It still follows the basics of the style, such as the petticoat/silhouette and modesty, but isn't nearly as intricate and allows for easier wearing. Casual lolita tends to make use of cutsews (cute tops that are made of more breathable and casual fabrics like jersey knit)
Examples of casual lolita: lolita-tips.tumblr.com/tagged/…

Country Lolita:
A style that is largely inspired by "country girl" looks. Common items in country lolita include gingham prints, fruit/flower prints, straw hats, straw baskets or purses, etc.
Examples of country lolita: lolita-tips.tumblr.com/tagged/…

Wa Lolita:
This is a style inspired by traditional Japanese clothing. (notice the bold; different countries have different traditional clothing. Japanese styles and Chinese styles are not interchangeable.) This includes tops that are styled after traditional kimono styles and prints that resemble traditional Japanese style prints.
Examples of wa lolita: lolita-tips.tumblr.com/tagged/…

Qi Lolita:
I never wanna see any of you saying "china lolita" ever again. Qi lolita is a style inspired by traditional Chinese clothing. Qi lolita generally takes the traditional chinese Qi Pao and works it into a lolita style.
Examples of qi lolita: lolita-tips.tumblr.com/tagged/…

Sailor Lolita:
Exactly what it says on the tin; sailor lolita tends to use sailor-style collars and hats, and uses nautical motifs such as anchors.
Examples of sailor lolita: lolita-tips.tumblr.com/tagged/…

Hime Lolita:
A very OTT style that focuses on looking elegant and extravagant, like a princess (hence the name). Hime lolita focuses on delicate and elaborate detailing, makes full use of crowns/tiaras, and is the style most inspired by rococo era fashion.
Examples of hime lolita: lolita-tips.tumblr.com/tagged/…


what are some examples of good lolita in MMD?

most of the things labelled lolita in the MMDc are not lolita at all; but there are a few that are accurate and good examples:
fav.me/dbbzm94
fav.me/db6lysa
fav.me/db8zeu8

where can i go for references?

lolita-tips is an amazing blog with a ton of guides. i suggest going there first.
lolita-tips.tumblr.com/
lolita-tips.tumblr.com/beginne… (lolita-tips beginner guides page; a good resource to have)

heckyealolitafashion posts many pictures of dresses, accessories, and reblogs a lot of coords by others.
heckyeahlolitafashion.tumblr.c…

fyealolita on blogspot has history posts, tutorials, guides, and more
fyeahlolita.blogspot.com/

for videos:
"Sugar Coated", a documentary about lolita fashion
www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0QSyv…

"Cuteness, escapism, and lace monsters: my first Lolita tea party", an edition of a series called "weird threads" exploring different fashion subcultures. despite the intro and the name of the series, this is a really good video and its really cute
www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwnmGo…

"Why is Lolita Called Lolita? [Kawaii Fashion School]" a video by Deerstalker Pictures, a lolita fashion group who does a lot of lolita-related videos, you should check them out!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqVc35…


so in conclusion, please do your research before calling something lolita. it's a good fashion that a lot of lolitas work hard at, people put a lot of effort into their coords, brands put a lot into their designs and art and construction and it's really exhausting to have miniskirts labelled lolita when they're not. you wouldn't want a bunch of people spouting off a shitload of misinformation on something you're passionate about, so why would you do it to others?
lolita fashion is something i researched for years and years and i'm very passionate about it. seeing so many things mislabeled as lolita is grating on my nerves and it's annoying not only for me but many other people who are passionate about it. a lot of love and work goes into this fashion, and it should be respected.

if you try to come at me with any "its just clothes" or similar comments, i will block you. to many people, lolita fashion is not "just" clothing.





_{miku model by tda and やまもと
stuff off to the side is a mix of natsuka and my own models}